We have been getting some pretty solid south swells creeping their way up past Chile but inside the Galapagos with waves up to 3 meters at 185-190 degrees.
I have been blessed with some fun surf almost everyday. The wave out front of the house is a beach-break that is affected by the direction of the swell as much as the sand underneath the water. Right now, during the rainy season there are a lot of new sandbars out front caused by the
After watching his ol’ dad catch a few waves Eli decided that it was his turn to try out a few moves on the surfboard. The problem is that he still can’t swim even though he is getting more and more comfortable in the water. So right now we are working on balance and coordination.
We have been spending the last few days on the coast in a little surf town called Santa Teresa. Santa Teresa is right next to another town called Mal Pais which means “bad country” in Spanish. I wouldn’t necessarily call it bad country, but it is a little bit like the wild west. The town is on
It took me all but 24 hrs to find the local surf community in Atenas. It turned out that one of the realtors that we used, Andrew Partian with Remax, is a surfer. He ended up putting us in to this great house, and the owner of the house Sebastain is a surfer as well.
My niece and nephew are in town for the next few days while their parents, my brother and his wife, are at a conference in Murrietta. Amanda is 16 and Justin is 11, they are both nice to have around because we don’t get to spend as much time with them as we use to
Lyndsey, Eli and I are taking off a week from Monday for the holidays. It will be a vacation work holiday experiment all wrapped up into one. We are leaving on Nov. 22 and coming back after the new year. I will be working while I am down there, but I do plan on taking
Localism 101 Trestles Trail South OC After running into disgruntle locals the other day at Sunset Cliffs it got me thinking about the topic of localism, and how it works with Surfing. Many people are fascinated by surfing and the art of riding waves, but until they strap that leash on and attempt to catch
Image Courtesy of National Geographic I had the funniest thing happen to me this morning. I only call it funny now on account of how it turned out, but while it was taking place I was rather perplexed for a moment. I had just got out of the water after having a pretty fun session
Eli is starting to get use to laying on his belly, so we thought that it would probably be a good idea that he get use to lying on a surfboard. He took to it pretty easy, almost too easy…it wasn’t long before he started giving the dog and chickens dirty looks almost as to