I have been blessed with some fun surf almost everyday. The wave out front of the house is a beach-break that is affected by the direction of the swell as much as the sand underneath the water. Right now, during the rainy season there are a lot of new sandbars out front caused by the run-off from the mountains, these give the waves a nice little punch. Almost every morning the wind has been mild or offshore which give the waves a nice form and fun little sections to either try to hit or get covered up. The real hazard right now is keeping the ol’ ear canals healthy so that I do not have to miss out on many of the fun mornings.
I was able to wip together this little .gif animation image from some clipping some video footage provided by http://www.malpaisurfcam.com/